Everest’s Deadly Descent: When Climbing Down Becomes the Hardest Ascent

The deaths of two Indian climbers, Arun Kumar Tiwari and Sandeep Are, on Mount Everest highlight a grim reality that has been unfolding for years. The descent from the world’s highest peak is proving to be as treacherous as the ascent.

This season saw a record 274 climbers reach the summit from the Nepalese side in a single day. While this achievement may seem impressive, it has come at a cost. The intense competition for spots on the mountain, combined with cheaper packages offered by Nepali firms, has led to a shift towards more commercialized and cut-rate expeditions.

Nepali companies have started selling entry-level climbs for as low as $30,000 to $45,000, undercutting Western operators that charge between $50,000 to $100,000. This price war in Everest’s expedition economy raises concerns about staffing, acclimatization support, rescue capacity, and safety systems.

Ankit Babu Adhikari, a Kathmandu-based Nepali writer and co-author of ‘Sherpa’, pointed out that when agencies compete mainly on price, essential aspects can become the first casualties. “There is competition to make climbs cheaper,” he said, “but this comes at the cost of safety.”

At high altitudes, climbers are vulnerable to a range of maladies, including snow blindness, severe exhaustion, frostbite, dehydration, hypothermia, and high-altitude pulmonary oedema. In the death zone above 8,000 meters, low oxygen levels can impair judgment, balance, and coordination.

Statistics on Everest’s mortality rate paint a sobering picture. A study published in BMJ found that among 94 mountaineers who died after climbing above 8,000 meters, 53, or 56%, died while descending from the summit. This pattern is often seen when climbers reach the summit after hours of effort but then face the harder test of getting down through cold, thin air.

Tiwari and Are were experienced mountaineers in their own right. Tiwari had earlier climbed Denali, Aconcagua, Kilimanjaro, and Elbrus as part of a planned Seven Summits campaign before attempting Everest. However, even the most seasoned climbers are not immune to the dangers of high altitude.

The incident highlights the need for authorities to control the number of climbers on the mountain. Nepal issued 494 Everest permits this spring, with each foreign climber requiring one Sherpa’s support. This pushed the total number of people moving on the fixed-rope route close to 1,000 during the summit window.

As climbers continue to push the limits on Everest, it is clear that the risks involved are not just limited to the individuals attempting the climb but also extend to the support staff, rescue teams, and the environment itself. The pressure to conquer the mountain at any cost has become a ticking time bomb waiting to unleash its fury.

The future of Everest’s expedition economy hangs in the balance. Policymakers must take concrete steps to regulate the industry or risk perpetuating a system that prioritizes profits over safety. As we mourn the loss of life on Everest, it is essential that we also reflect on the lessons learned and the changes needed to ensure this iconic mountain remains a symbol of human achievement rather than a graveyard for those who dare to climb.